
London fashion gathering when the chatter embraces polka dots, Sars masks and Pac-Man. For, while the financial world was busy channelling 1929, the British fashion industry was saluting a triumphant week for creativity and sales alike.
Donatella Versace (right) and daughter, Allegra, in Donatella’s designs
Dressed to impress: Donatella Versace (right) and daughter, Allegra, in Donatella’s designs
"I thought it would be nice to gather all the designers together for a celebration and to give everyone a chance to wind down," said Alexandra Shulman, who, as editor of Vogue, hosted the magazine's Celebration of Fashion Dinner last Thursday.
And while one might imagine that it would be all back-stabbing and temper tantrums, it was a relaxed affair. It even ran pretty much on time, once Donatella Versace was regally in situ in a risqué turquoise number, and a flurry of fashionistas had dashed over in the wake of the Vivienne Westwood show, not least the grand dame herself.
The exception was Kate Moss, who, on her second party of the night, retained haute status by appearing at 11pm before exiting for a bout of carousing with Versace's daughter, Allegra.
The kissing was hearty rather than air, amid the soothing environs of Brown's Hotel in Mayfair. Its relaunched Albemarle restaurant was given over to indulging the event's 120 diners with shoulder of lamb and not one but three sugar hits. The room's plush green furnishings perfectly co-ordinated with the packaging of co-host Crème de la Mer. It was the first time the brand has involved itself with gifting, bestowing TLC on Fashion Week-furrowed complexions.
The intimate scale was in no sense a sign of retrenchment. Shulman's speech noted that similar siren voices were heard 16 years ago when she took the helm of the magazine. Then, the view that British fashion might be having its last hurrah was followed by a flourishing of talent of the likes of Hussein Chalayan, Matthew Williamson, and Alexander McQueen.
Shulman's guests confirmed her optimism. "Despite the terrible news of bankruptcies, banks closing and stock-exchange chaos, we are working," remarked designer Nicole Farhi. "The day after my show, loads of people were coming to buy. There was such a buzz. So it would seem that there are some reasons to be cheerful."
Harold Tillman, chairman of the British Fashion Council, looking dapper in a black mohair suit, confirmed the buoyant mood. "We had strong indications of good business being written at the exhibition during LFW," he said. "I hope that the reason is that fashion will always bring a bright spot to people's lives, for what we do here in London is create and make a difference to fashion worldwide."
The evidence was apparent in the lavish finery all about. Shulman sported Temperley, a charming note since the eponymous Alice was forced to absent herself, having gone into labour with her son, Fox London Temperley von Bennigsen Mackiewicz.
Naturally, many of the designers were sporting their own wares. John Rocha's wife and design partner, Odette, was the envy of many with her hydrangea jacket, its ruffled shoulders resembling a pair of sumptuous black wings. "I'm a very happy man," beamed Rocha. "I've always been about making what people like rather than making a fashion statement, and that is what the world is realising it wants."
Shulman issued a rallying cry for her dream of an LFW at which British designers who no longer show in the capital would stage a return; a call that provoked whoops of delight from new talents such as Henry Holland, and the odd arched eyebrow among the exiles to whom she referred.
"It needs some of the big hitters with advertising campaigns behind them to show in London, such as Burberry and Pringle, along with some of the great British talents like John Galliano, Stella McCartney and McQueen," said Shulman.
"Then, along with the tremendous creative energy of some of the younger designers and our well-established names who do show here, we would have something that the international press and buyers would feel they couldn't afford to miss. It only works as a collaboration, though, and everyone would have to be prepared to try it and have the confidence to do it - even if only as a one-off. Given that this is the start of the 25th anniversary of LFW, next September would be the perfect time."